Karl S Mann: Europe 2013 -Visit in Rioja/Spain

Leaving Penafiel in Ribera del Duero (still without luggage) we headed north towards Rioja. Kristell Monot was kind enough to handle all communications with the airlines and we decided to have our luggage sent ahead to our hotel in Rioja. We chose the beautiful drive through the countryside, avoiding the major highway. After Burgos we headed up through the mountains, then dropped down into the beautiful valley that makes up the Rioja Wine Region of Spain.

We were booked into Hosperedia Senorio de Brinas (read my review of the Hotel here) and arrived there late afternoon - our luggage was waiting for us and we were delighted to see it! The hotel, remodeled by the owners who are Interior Architects was stunning. It is about a 20 minute walk along the river to the city of Haro, which had wonderful small tapas wine bars all along their Plaza Casa Mayor . We enjoyed local tapas (Jamon Iberia (cured ham) and fresh marinated anchovies. Afterwards we visited the famous

C.V.N.E. Winery in Haro.....they had the most delicious Spanish Rioja wines, Crianza's, Gran Reservas - I really liked their Villa Real which was a full bodied, red fruit bearing Rioja that was just too easy to drink - we picked up a few of their Crianza's for the road trip ahead of us. If you are ever in the area, make sure to spend some time in their tasting room and pick up a few bottles.

Leaving Haro we headed east towards Laguardia where we had reservations at the Hotel of Eguren Ugarte (see review here). I have been working with Ugarte/Eguren wines for over 4 years in Indiana. I was finally at their winery in Rioja. Above the winery is a spectacular hotel perched on top of a hill overlooking the Rioja Valley - a stunning view. Underneath the hotel is the winery - actually when your leave your room and walk into the hallway you look directly through a huge glass wall. into the barrel room

We were given a private tour through their cellars which the founder - Vittorio and five of his friends spent five years digging out of the rock under the hill. In the 'caves' there are 'niches' where customers store wines they purchase from the winery. Every so often we would come across a "party room" inside that huge cellar that customers can use to celebrate and share their wines with friends and family. We tasted the new KAME wines soon to be in the USA and hopefully soon in Indiana for all of us to enjoy.

Most beautiful old cellar I ever saw

Patty and I decided to have dinner at their Gourmet Restaurant on the top floor of the hotel. It was a 5 course dinner that included wine (I did not have to worry about driving). During dinner we had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Koldo Eguren-Cendoya, the current owner of Eguren-Ugare and he invited us to a Flamenco Show downstairs in the cellars after dinner. During the show Koldo treated us with Martin Condoya Reserva (Tempranillo) and with the outstanding Anastasia. It was summer solstice and the super moon shone over the winery - a great experience.

Barrel Room with Muriel

Private Barrels

View from our room

Suckling pig

View from our room

Old Vines

Me & Mr. Koldo Eguren-Cendoya, Owner of Ugarte-Eguren

Earlier in the day we visited two architecturally renown winery's Ysios Winery - an architectural jewel in the country side of Rioja, and Marquesas de Riscal. The Marquesas de Riscal hotel was designed by Frank Gehrig (after they bribed him with 3 bottles of 1927 Gran Riserva - his birth year). However, as amazing the hotel building is...the winery is even more. You must book a tour in advance to see the production facilities and cellars. This was something I have never seen before. All 64 stainless steel fermenting tanks were controlled by one (!) computer console, the cellars were full of barrels and full of bottles, waiting to be released. We had tapas in their tasting room and drank their 2003 Grand Reserva before leaving...the 2003 is now only available at the winery.We did some serious wine shopping again for the road - one never knows if the car breaks down.

Ysios Winery

Maques de Riscal

Marques di Riscal Winery was amazing

Rioja was simply overwhelming and Patty and I will be returning there at least one more time. Heading north we drove up through the Basque Mountains into San Sebastian on the Atlantic Coast.
We spend a night at Hotel Maria Christina - I swear by God - that this was the largest bed I have ever seen in a hotel. We enjoyed the Old Town of San Sebastion, walked the length of the beach -- don't believe the concierge at the hotel, it is nearly an hour each way, not 20 minutes, and well worth the funicular ride up the mountain for a fabulous view of the city. You must visit the Basque Tapas bars in Old Town where tapas are called "pintxos". This is one of the most exiting cities in Europe right now. Two of the top ten restaurants in the world are located in San Sebastian. WE WILL be back!